Many of the local people had once been hunters, regaling us with stories of their fearsome face-to-face encounters with the Jaguar.
A spotlight burst into life, momentarily panning across the far bank, before returning us to darkness. Adolfo slipped the blade of his hand carved hardwood paddle into molasses coloured water, adjusting the course of our dugout canoe with precision developed over a lifetime plying these waters.
Have you ever heard of the 'Big 5'? Supposedly the five African animals most difficult and dangerous to hunt on foot. Unfortunately, it's more a marketing term aimed at tourists than anything else.
For some reason, whenever I land back at London Heathrow it's always raining. Four days before I'd been trekking through dense rainforest, leaving behind me a science camp that had been home for the past month..